South Island – last days

Franz Josef glacier

After a couple of nervous minutes, Laura could relax again. The new tire had arrived and, more importantly, the guys at the garage could get the old one off even after it had been manhandled by us, an incompetent AA roadside assistance guy and a group of very drunk kiwi skinheads with a pitbull. Three days behind schedule, we were finally homeward bound.

We flew past beautiful Lake Wanaka, over a possum (or three) and under an amazing star sky into glacier country. The Fox and Franz Josef glaciers are popular, but dangerous tourist destinations. Unfortunately, time had run out and we could not venture out on the thick ice but had to continue North on the stunning Western Highway. In Punakaiki, we noticed that the pancake rocks were pretty but quite overrated. Or at least the nearby cafés crammed with backpackers. We were, however, pleasantly surprised by the surfing opportunities in Westport. The following day we were once again on the Interislander ferry, slowly cruising through the Marlborough Sounds as the sun rose at the horizon. Being back on the North Island felt like returning to civilization. A couple of pies and Big Bikkies later Nic found himself falling towards the ground over Lake Taupo. Until the parachute opened, thus marking the end of a great roadtrip.

We were back in Hamilton. City of the Future. The Tron.

South Island- Days 8-10

Shadows

With Buffy the car limp on one tire, the time had come for some serious decision making. Time was running short if we were wanting to do something outside of Queenstown. After intense negotiations we set out for Stewart’s Island. Contemporary Maori may say Rakiura (Glowing Skies) after the southern lights that are sometimes visible, but the island has also been known as Te Punga o Te Waka a Maui – The Anchor Stone of Maui’s Canoe.

In Maori legend the god Maui caught a great fish (the North Island) from a canoe (the South Island) with Stewart’s Island serving as an anchor. With a population of 402 and all the electricity generated by a communal diesel engine, one might say that it isn’t the most modern of places. There is practically no cell phone coverage. Rain collected in septic tanks is the islanders’ only supply of fresh water, but apparently the water is so clean that it can be bottled and sold.

After eating some of the best (blue cod) fish and chips in the world, accompanied by battered Bluff oysters and a bottle of Speight’s I was very happy my king size sleeping bag was thick and warm. It must have been approaching freezing temperatures outside that night and Kalle regretted having bought a thinner, lighter version when he shakingly fell asleep fully dressed in our spacious tent. The next morning we set out at dawn. The reason for coming had been to see the Rakiura track, one of the great walks of New Zealand. The walk is divided in three sections of 12 km through hilly rainforests and sandy beaches. According to the DOC signs, the estimated duration was roughly 5.5 hours per leg, or 16.5 hours in total. We decided we were going to make a try at finishing it all in one day. Essentially, we had to, since our ferry back was booked for the next morning at 8 am.

We were soon put to the test, with pools of mud and steep inclines challenging our mission. There were practically no reminders of civilization but for the track itself. Tired, aching and very much unsuccessful in spotting any kiwi birds we returned to Half Moon Bay right before sunset. The only road from here was North.

South Island – Days 5-7

River surfing

Queenstown is where all the 18-year-old backpackers go for some adrenaline action. A visit to AJ Hackett is mandatory. Laura’s friend Nic had another good reason to visit the original site of bungy jumping – his sister had already done it. The platform is set on an old bridge over the Kawarau river, known from a film the newzealanders refer to as “Lord of the Rings”. There were no pillars with kings, though, which was somewhat disappointing.

Nic did his jump, then got the dvd and the photos to prove it to disbelievers. Then the shock of the day came. Kalle, who only days before had gallantly backed out of doing the swoop, was suddenly on the bridge waiting for his turn. I was quite content with just sipping my cappuccino and watching it all.

The Kawarau also has some great rapids and we decided to have a closer look. River surfing means tumbling down grade II-IV rapids on a bodyboard. The 6 mm wetsuit helps some to keep you from dying of hypothermia, but let’s say it was not exactly pleasant to jump in. The highlights were surfing a standing wave and the last and biggest rapid, the Chinese dogleg. Not drowning was also a good experience.

Milford Sounds

Later we discovered that Milford sounds are just as breathtaking as in the postcards and that Key Summit can be climbed 30% faster than the DOC signs say. A discovery which would have a bearing on bold decisions later in our trip… Heading home from Milford, Buffy the car had been pushed to her limits and a flat tire stranded us by the side of the road. Lock knobs apparently are a bad thing if you haven’t got the key. Suddenly, we were stuck in Queenstown. What to do?

South Island – Days 3 and 4

Lake Tekapo and The Church of the Good Shepherd

After roughing it for a couple of days, Christchurch offered some welcome urban distraction on our way to mighty Mount Cook. The highest mountain in New Zealand at almost 4000 metres, it provided an excellent training ground for Sir Edmund Hillary before launching his Everest expedition. Along the road are beautiful lakes Tekapo and Pukaki. It is understandable that The Church of the Good Shepherd does not feature a painting behind the altar but rather a panorama window over the pristine surroundings…

Suddenly temperatures had dropped to the teens. We checked into our hostel in the supposed-to-be-dead Twizel and had to talk a waitress into staying open a little longer. After all, it was past eight o’ clock.

The following morning after a…refreshing…shower we set out for the mountain only to find out that the weather forecast was rain and gale force winds. We had to abandon our plans to ascend the mountain and restrict ourselves to a shorter tramp instead of the famed panorama views at Mueller Hut. After finding consolation in a cup of hot chocolate in front of the fireplace we headed to Lake Tekapo where Kalle, unknowingly, laid his cell phone to rest and got involved with the local law enforcement officers.

South Island – Day 2

Sperm whale

After a night in Nelson and my first ever Eggs Benedict, we left for Kaikoura. Unfortunately we forgot to close the boot doing so, leaving half of our luggage by the side of the road. I was nervous opening my laptop case, but it had survived with only minor contusions. Kaikoura is known for its marine safaris, with opportunities to see whales, dolphins and seals and even swim with them. We were fortunate and spotted four male sperm whales. Apparently the waters around New Zealand are too cold for females, which are more likely to be seen off the coasts of Tonga and Cook Islands. On our way back to land, the boat was surrounded by a group of playful dusky dolphins. I don’t know if Kalle was happier then or when he got four of a kind and won the late night poker tournament.

South Island – Day 1

Within a couple of days, our Hamilton apartment had turned into a hostel. Kalle had already arrived, and within 48 hours Laura’s friends Nic and Kate showed up.

The time had come to head south.

After a few Big Bikkie-stops on our way to Wellington, the Interislander ferry brought us to Picton on the South Island. We soon discovered that we had arrived after kiwi bedtime. Many places in NZ close down at 9.30 pm, and Picton was no exception from the rule. The hungry Swedes had to satisfy their cravings at the local Shell-station and so the pie eating frenzy had begun. From now on, at least one pie a day was consumed – mainly because of their abundant availability at gas stations, in comparison to relatively uncommon breakfast cafés. Kalle’s superman metabolism required him to eat at least two, before turning to sour squirms.

At dawn we set off for Abel Tasman National Park. I hadn’t been sea kayaking since Åland 2004. This was very much warmer.

Sea kayaking at Abel Tasman

On land, rodents and possums feast on the eggs of native birds, such as the tui and pukeko. On the small islands in Abel Tasman, the authorities have succesfully managed to re-establish birdlife through traps and protective devices. The result is clearly audible. Around a corner, we found a colony of NZ fur seals. Hunted almost to extinction to supply the demand of European fur industries, the seals have risen greatly in numbers after becoming a protected species.

NZ fur seal

We soon discovered that the rocks were studded with blue and green lipped mussels. It is not every day you get an opportunity to harvest your own dinner. It was to the expense of a few cuts and scratches, but free and fresh. Almost all mussels were infested with small pea crabs. Perfectly edible according to our guide we tried to munch away, but except for Kate I think we all had enough after a few crunches. The taste may best be described as “not entirely unlike unpeeled prawns”.

Rotorua getaway

Jet boating

On a rainy and miserable weekend with severe weather warnings for much of the North Island, we left Hamilton for the slightly sulphurous Rotorua. Here, volcanic terrain has given entrepreneurs opportunity to open volcanic mud spas and hot pots. There are also plenty of outdoor activities and what sounds more inviting in pouring rain than to venture on a luge ride?

After taking the gondola to the top of the mountain, the race was on. Needless to say we all got soaked. Apparently the brakes don’t work as well when the track is wet.

Swooping

The next day Kalle arrived from his PADI course in Whangarei. While his ears were still wet, we went to Agroventures for a swoop and jet boating before ending the day with zorbing and another luge ride.